Looking thru the listings on Gunbroker I noticed a S&W 310 finally listed for sale. I guess they will finally start trickling into the distribution system.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=143860735

Now, I just have to let other guys beta test the thing to see if it has the same problems as some of the other NG's. I really hope the 310 is squared away. I'll definitely get one if it works out.

What problems have been reported with the Night Guard series?

I have several nightguard pistols in 45,44spec and 44 mag, all seem fine. I have never heard of problems matter of fact I'm waiting on a 310 now. I think guys make that stuff up so they won't have to buy anything..John

Several posters over at Smith & Wesson forum report light primer strikes and failures to fire.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers...blems-here.html

Here's one of those threads. I was really wanting a NG in 44 spl. I'm sure the vast majority of them work as advertised but I'll wait a while. By the time I get my account paid down at the gun shop, I hope the Bren Ten will be out. So, that'll solve my buying dilemma.

I need to see one of these in person.

I like the idea of a short barreled 10mm...

This post has been edited by Danzig: November 3rd 2009 11:22 PM

enidpd,

The firing pin problems and FTFs are indicative of the short firing pin that the factory insists on installing on all their new N-frames. Sure you can send the gun back to the factory if you experience these, but I've given up and just install an extended firing pin on all my new N-frames.

I just picked up a 310NG on monday and will be exchanging firing pins tomorrow before I go to the range. My only concern is the extremely sharp ledge in the chambers to headspace the 10mm without moonclips. I want to shoot 40s out of it, but not sure if this will cause leading issues with the jackets being strippedor damaged as the 40s pass by.

-Repellere

Repellere, I take it that these new "shorter" firing pins are standard on the most recently manufactured N-Frames? So all those "other" N-Frames more than two years old should have the standard longer pins. I have not had a problem with my 610, or 625. Both shot well with, or without moonclips present. I have heard that certain Winchester ammo will cause problems with the newer pins. Where can I purchase, a longer pin for my newly-ordered 610 with 4" bbl. Did you do the swap, or a gunsmith?

Zephyr,

There are two extended firing pins that I'm aware of. I use Cylinder & Slide pins while others recommend an Apex Tactical product. The C&S pin is as easy as removing the side plate, cocking the hammer and pulling a smaller retainer pin that retains the firing pin in the frame. The firing pin will drop out and you just have to orient the new pin so that the retainer can be reinstalled. Some have stated that the C&S pin can break when dry fired so I do minimal dry firing without snapcaps or previously fired primers.

My problem factory pins go back to at least 2003 or 2004. Even the Performance Center guns suffer from this malady. When you dry fire and hold the trigger down, you can visibly see how different the new N-frame pins project versus the older hammer mounted firing pin or even some new J-frames. The extended firing pins project almost identically to my older hammer mounted pins.

If you're not comfortable removing the sideplate, then I would use a gunsmith to replace it. The nice thing about the revolver is you can check for correct function without having to go to the range. Unlike a semi-auto, you can see the firing pin work during dry firing.

-R

I have one N frame now and have never had a problem, when doing the check like you mention (I do it on all S&W's with internal FP) and it extends about as far out as my hammer mounted 610 does. But my unfired NIB 686 5" has a firing pin that probably will not hit the primer full on enough to fire a round, that is if it would even hit the primmer. I have put off replacing the pin because I thought I might trade it off for a 610 4" but that seems unlikely now, so I will probably replace the pin an keep the gun.

Old Navy,

Just wanted to give you a heads up that over the weekend I experienced my first malfunctions with the extended firing pin in my 310. I was going to put up a range report some time this week. Apparently a happy medium needs to be reached between the factory firing pin and the extended aftermarket pins. I've had extended pins in my 357s and 45s and had not experienced any problems until I was shooting 40s and the pin would get stuck in primer. It wouldn't retract and would keep the cylinder from rotating, effectively disabling the revolver. A solution here could be to back out the main spring screw until the firing pin is operating at a nominal depth on the primers.

Alternatively, the factory pin requires that the main spring screw needs to be fully tightened for reliable ignition. Even a quarter turn of the main spring screw would cause light primer strikes. Very frustrating!

Just wanted to make you aware that some experimentation is required.
-R

Been several different threads over the last couple years on S&W Forum about the problem. I will wait and see how the 686+ does first before doing any replacing, but I did find a spare FP in the odds an ends drawer last week. It must have been in box of junk/parts I bought at a gun show a while back.