I forgot which one of you sent me the link to fixing a canted sight, but thank you!
It's here.........
http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/fsbcantfix.htmAt home, I first removed the original dowel pins and broke the FSB loose a little. It was still way tight and wouldn't move easily. I drilled the holes as per the link and then put in some 1/8" x 1/2" long roll pins. I did this because I didn't have any dowel pins at the time, but found later that it was a good idea because I could tap the FSB with a rubber mallet to adjust it side to side.
Then I centered the front sight post in the FSB "hood", took it to a rifle range and then using a rubber mallet, tapped the FSB left to right until it looked good, and fired a few rounds each time to test. When I was happy with the windage, I then used a fine point Sharpie and marked on the FSB bottom and the barrel. The line was "L" shaped and showed where the FSB was supposed to line up with the barrel in case I bumped it. Use the finest Sharpie you can get because a fat line will skew your results.
Just to let you know that if you use a 1/8" drill bit like the webpage says, a 1/8" by 1/2" steel dowel pin will fit snugly and securely if you order them from Fastenal. The pins are slightly oversized which makes sense, otherwise they'd pass right through the 1/8" hole. I did NOT get the oversized pins. The stock ones are something like 0.001 over 1/8" anyway. Here is a link to their pins:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=...12226&Nty=0I actually went to a local store and the employee there was a gun enthusiast as well and just gave me a couple to try. The local store sells them in bulk only. Luckily, they worked! Mine were stainless or shiny steel in color and the collars were beveled. I'm not sure if they all are beveled since I didn't get to look at the different kinds.
Instead of hammering in the dowel and risking the chance of knocking the FSB off canter again, I pressed mine in using a vise, a 1/8" roll pin, and an AR FSB block from Brownell's. I have a cheapo Winchester gun vise that I used to hold the rifle.
Important note: I don't know why the link makes us drill out the holes. I could have just as easily used the original dowel pins that the rifle came with and just used the rubber mallet tapping/shoot to test method and think it would have worked just as well. Because when drilling, it doesn't appear that you're drilling channels in the barrel that would have to line up with the FSB holes. I think the dowels just put pressure on the barrel by bending the bottom of the FSB when they're inserted. Since I never took the FSB off, I can't be certain but this is what is seems.
Also, when you drill out the holes and add the roll pins or 1/8" dowel pin, it extends the pin on the spring that locks your muzzle brake in place. So, what happens is that your muzzle brake won't fit flush against the FSB IF you have an aftermarket one. If you have the slanted one, it will be fine. On this gun I had the birdcage one and it only allows about 3-4mm's of that springed-pin in the indentation. So, I had to dremel the pin a little shorter so that the muzzle would fit flush. It wasn't a big deal but it is an extra step.
Sorry that I don't have pics but just wanted to let you know that I was successful using these methods.
ETA: Forgot some pre rifle-range testing and other stuff.
This post has been edited by kargo27: August 6th 2009 7:16 PM
August 6th 2009 1:27 PM
But after doing this first one, the second should be pretty easy. The hardest part is the rubber mallet adjustments at the range. A tap on this side, a tap on the other. It would be so much easier just to have a windage adjustment on the rear sight!
