Hey guys,

I first loaded a couple hundred rounds of Blue Dot without any real complaints other than my own screw ups (got that squared away now that I'm taper crimping in a separate step.)...Loaded just a few near the max levels for 155gr FP. But I eventually settled on 10gr of Blue Dot.

I loaded some today with Power Pistol, and I think it measures a bunch better, and I was loading at 9.2gr. Do any of you have any thing to say about these two powders, and what the pros and cons may be. Do my levels sound about right? I am not looking for really hot loads. Just reasonably powerful enough to justify longevity, expense, and still have a good understanding of the superior benefits of a 10mm round over others.


As far as my weapons....I have a steel witness (had a ftf problem when I got it, but I polished up the ramp and inside of the slide, and replaced the recoil spring with a wolff 20#, which I am pretty sure cleared up all the ftfs.)

I also have a new witness Full Polymer. Did the same as above, but put in a 16# spring. It is a little more finicky, but I expect it will take a while to break it in. It does however shoot about 3-4 inches lower than my steel witness. Hoping this is me causing the low shooting though.

I'm using 10.2 gr. PP for 1450 fps from my stock Kimber. PP meters superbly and works especially well with the lighter weight 10mm bullets. It is one of my favorites.
Blue Dot is a great powder too. Takes a bit more to get the same job done and does not meter quite as well.
16# might be a bit light for the Witness for handloads. Might want to check with Wolff to up that a bit.
I can't remember what weight recoil spring used in my full size steel Witness before I sold it, but it was about 20#.
Also do you own a chronograph? They are an extremely valuable and necessary tool for hand loading.
Good luck!
TG

I have another 20# Wolff spring to put into my witness full polymer if it doesn't do well with the 16#. I just thought I would try it first. The 20# is pretty difficult to cycle the slide, but I'm sure I will get used to it after awhile. I got a 22# as well, but don't think it'll be necessary after my last experience with the 20# in my steel.

Any idea on the difference in pressures between the two powders? Like I said earlier, I'm interested in the least amount of damage to my hardware and brass, but still have a decent 10mm round. I haven't ponied up for a chronograph yet. Just bought a CV-750 tumbler today to clean my brass. Almost have everything it takes to successfully reload, still need a bullet puller too. Only complaint I have about reloading is that I am using a single stage press. So it takes me a couple hours to turn out 200 rounds since I first have to decap/resize, expand, polish, clean, prime (hand prime), and then powder and seat, and then finally taper crimp. But it looks like I'm getting a lot better at it.

If I got the process wrong, let me know? Also, after sifting out the media after cleaning the rounds, what is the best way to get all the media dust out of the inside of the brass, or is that even something to worry about? I'm using Lyman media and some of it is getting lodged in the primer cap. Of course I haven't bought a media separator. Just using a plastic collander over a plastic catch bin. I did not add any additives to the Lyman media. Would that help?

Appreciate the info!

pglenn, Try cutting up(1"x1" squares) some of the used fabric softener sheets(which go in the dryer) and add them to the media. This will collect the dirt and dust, not a bad way to get double use of a product. Adding tea spoon of mineral spirits(run the tumbler for 3-5 mins) before you add the brass will shine them up nice.

I still load on a single stage press for everything for over 30 years. I don't load to produce a thousand rounds an hour, I load a thousand rounds that are custom match quality in the time need to do them. Its not a race work at your own pace! Develop a system that works for you and you setup. Enjoy the fact you are suiting your own needs!

Progressive presses are nice(even have one) they produce large amounts of ammo and if attention to every detail is not adhered to you could load many mistakes! I fine they are suited to mid level rounds with finer powders which meter very well. They should not be used for the extreme full power loadings, just too many things going on.

Best regards and be safe!

Very cool. Thanks Shadow! I was hoping there would be some "home brew" remedy. I understand the quality aspect of the single stage. I do like to take pride in my creations. I should have a thousand rounds completed by the end of this weekend. Only problem is primers. The only place I can find them is a local gun shop, and they will only sell two hundred per person per day. But I am at least glad that they have them, and if a 200 a day limit keeps them available, I'm all for it. I ordered 10,000 large pistol and small rifle primers about two months ago, no word on when and if that will ever come through from Graf & Sons.

I'm off to the range now to test some of my creations!