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Reloading .223/5.56, Step by Step With Pics
post May 1st 2009 1:43 AM
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Excellent post! thumb.gif
I appreciate the time and effort! thumb.gif


One thing, if you can.

Can you explain the procedure for setting the correct depth for the seating die, and the proper adjustment for the crimp. Seeing as how both of these processes take place simultaneously when using the bullet seating die, I could use a refresher.

TIA,
louie


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post May 14th 2009 3:57 AM
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I use about 4gallons of water and put 4 boxes of sure jell in it ,decap my brass .Put the brass in a net bag and than in a 5 gal.bucket pure the water and sure jell mix over he brass let sit about 15 min. Shake around alitte and wash off the bass with water and dry it,and it only takes about 2 hour of tumbling to be clean.
G


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post May 17th 2009 10:52 PM
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This is great as I am starting to reload myself (my own rounds, that is). I'm doing .223,.308, and hopefully soon 6.8 spl in the rifles. 45 acp, 38spl/357 mag, and 9mm in the hand guns (wow, I just noticed I have some really uncommon ammo requirements). laugh.gif

Anyways several questions:

1) I was told that you probably shouldn't re-size your case (rifle rounds) until after firing 2-3 times, because it will then be stretched as far as it ever will - T/F?

2) How important is resizing for hand guns?

3) How important is crimping for handguns v. rifle rounds?

4) What is the difference between roll and factory crimp?

5) what are good clues/signs of overcharging your rounds?

My main goal is to reload to save money, and have ammo when I need it, not really trying to tweak my groups to near perfection. unsure.gif unsure.gif .....................yet.

Thanks for any input! smile.gif flea.gif

This post has been edited by M-60A1: May 17th 2009 10:55 PM


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post May 20th 2009 7:17 AM
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Thanks for the informative post.

IIRC, this round was designed around IMR 3031, a lot of people feel it's the best powder for the AR-15. At least the gas-impingement units anyway...do you find the H335 performs better for you? I think the military currently uses H335, but what do they know? lol But if you're using ball powder, you might find magnum primers will give you better results. Well, if you can find any.

This post has been edited by tippet: May 20th 2009 7:23 AM


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post May 20th 2009 7:49 AM
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Great post. Thanks for taking the time to make it.


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post May 31st 2009 4:51 PM
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Thanks for this. Clears up some of my questions.

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post June 1st 2009 1:45 AM
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I loaded my first 50 rds last week, and this post helped immensely. I didn't have my laptop with me, but I had looked thru this enough times to feel like I was watching it being done. Thanks so much.

Smitty

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post June 16th 2009 12:38 AM
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QUOTE (pdog1517 @ March 18th 2009 7:57 PM) *
Step 8- Seating the bullet
COL is another step that requires extreme care. Refer to your manual for COL based on bullet weight and style. Seating the bullets to deep into cases or long/ jammed into the rifling can cause high, unsafe pressure levels. Crimping can be acomplished at this point, some dies have the crimp built in while others use a seperate die to achieve the desired crimp.


Check your COL with calipers, and adjust the die as needed.


The Finished product


Box em or bag em. Label all containers with bullet style and weight, powder and charge weight, primer, case, COL, load date, and any other info that pertains to each specific load.

Remember to be safe. Wear eye protection during all reloading work. Start new loads low and work em up.
Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the results. flea.gif


How well does your Media mixture clean the inside of the brass? flea.gif


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post June 16th 2009 3:14 AM
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Thx 4 the info. I'll be gathering supplies.
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post June 17th 2009 3:15 AM
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me and a friend have been thinking about getting into reloading but the process seemed quite complex. after we saw this we're pretty phsyced to get started. thanks pdog
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post June 22nd 2009 9:15 PM
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Many, many thanks for this post. I really appreciate seeing the process distilled to these basic steps.
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post July 2nd 2009 1:52 PM
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Nice post pdog! I always appreciate visuals over verbiage any day thumb.gif
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post July 10th 2009 12:54 PM
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QUOTE (MrGee @ May 13th 2009 10:57 PM) *
I use about 4gallons of water and put 4 boxes of sure jell in it ,decap my brass .Put the brass in a net bag and than in a 5 gal.bucket pure the water and sure jell mix over he brass let sit about 15 min. Shake around alitte and wash off the bass with water and dry it,and it only takes about 2 hour of tumbling to be clean.
G



I've never heard of "sure jell." What is it and where do you get it?
Thanks
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post July 10th 2009 12:58 PM
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To all,
I have been reloading with a single stage RCBS press for many years now and just got my RCBS Turret press in last night. I strongly recommend it even for the novice reloader as it is as close to a progressive reloading system as you can get and about only 1/3rd the cost, especially if you already have any RCBS equipment.
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post October 11th 2009 4:17 AM
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QUOTE (wildturk @ April 30th 2009 7:27 PM) *
"Swaging" is to remove the crimp from the primer pocket on Military brass. The RCBS set-up is one of the best and easiest I've used. It's a good investment for the $15, sooner or later you'll need it.


Never reloaded but am interested. How many $ would you say it takes to get started using the equipment shown in the pictures. Don't need an exact figure.

This post has been edited by stsrex: October 11th 2009 4:20 AM
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post October 11th 2009 4:51 AM
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you can pick up perfectly good old equipment on ebay very cheap.
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post October 15th 2009 6:04 PM
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Just have one question, is this about correct:

Hodgdon H335 ---> 26.7 charge
CCi primer
Hornady ?

What was the bullet weight on your 223 pet load, and is that the correct charge, I'd like to turn some out.

Thanks great job on the tutorial.

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post November 9th 2009 8:34 PM
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please tell me you can help. i've posted this in a new thread but havent gotten any answers and really dont want to blow my head off





so i put my new ar togatether and took it to the range and collected the casings after ordering reloading supplies . sent the brass to a buddy to tumble for me and first thing he noticed was that my ar gouged the hell out of the brass right by the neck and back further on the casing, kind of little dents. usually about 4 per case. wasnt sure if this will be a problem or not also he said the casings i fired first were more damaged than the later ones. so i figured here would be the best place to ask some questions

is this normal for an ar? or is it only normal for a new ar?

is it going to cause any problems reloading?

is there any special technique to getting around this?

since later rounds that day weent damaged as badly as the first box is there a chance that its just breaking in and it will stop happening soon?
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post November 9th 2009 11:07 PM
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My ar puts small dents on the necks and the deflector puts small dents halfway down almost every casing. I reload them all and have never had a problem.
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post November 9th 2009 11:14 PM
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thanks so much for the answer lol i thought i was gonna have to just try it and pray lol.

do you notice you need to replace the brass more often than other guns you reload for?

thanks once again.
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