Sounds cool, can't wait to see how that turns out.

Great info, I'm going to get some model paint in the morning!

I am going to try and find a craft store today and pick up some paint.

Grab some Microbrushes! They will allow a full drop of paint to smoothly fills the rollmarks...

Will do. I tried Target and a crafts store near hear and neither one had any. I am pretty sure Wal-Mart still has models and paint so I will try there next.

I've thought of using model paint...




TS

Yeah...but if I'm not mistakend...Honda Civics are assembled here in the good old U.S.A., and Supras in Japan......so which one is the import?

They might be assembled here in the United States, but at the end of th day a huge portion of the money spent to buy that car leaves the US and goes back to Japan.

Great job quoting a 7 month old post. The Supra sure is an import. Someone had to make a quality sportscar back in 1993. Toyota definitely did, which is why the Supra is in such heavy demand today. My little import is 15 years old and is still worth nearly 75% of it's original value. I have zero complaints...

Back on topic, I did my HK G3K clone, too:

I'm impressed - how do they look now after some time has passed?

I must head to the hobby store and try this out, It looks great!!

So simple, using model paint! I used gold fill pen on my lower Oly logo and it was a pain in the butt to clean up. This will work much better..........and cheaper.

Tom

I've tried this 3 times now using Testor's. The first time worked great. I picked up the paint from a hobby store; Testor's flat red, flat white, and thinner. But the smallest brushes they had I didn't think would be small enough. I stopped by the drugstore and bought a hypodermic syringe with an inside diameter/bore large enough that I thought I might be able to suck some thinned paint up with. Although it technically worked, it was difficult to suck it up. Using this method provided fairly good accuracy and control, although cleaning up excess proved a PITA, all 3 times. While attempting to clean it up, using cotton pads and CLP, I ended up smearing it all over and cleaning paint out from the rollmarks, requiring several attempts to get it "right". Tonight, about 3 months later, I attempted to touch up some spots. I noticed a decimal point, comma, and part of the logo that I had missed and decided to try filling them in. As often is my luck, while striving for perfection, disaster was the result. This time I just tried using a toothpick, which worked well enough but I couldn't get it to "flow" as it did the first time. I ended up trying a previous (possibly the initial?) poster's advice of letting it dry a little before wiping down. I set it in front of a fan, perhaps this dried to too much, I don't know, but the crap would NOT come off this time. I ended up smearing it all around and making a huge mess, so I decided to start over. I used Breakfree to spray it all off, which worked very well for completely removing all the paint. I thought perhaps it would work better if all the old paint and CLP was removed. Anyway, throughout my endeavor tonight I tried 3 times, and sprayed it clean 3 times. I lost my patience and decided to live with the SAFE/FIRE colored and the logo clean.

So... Any idea as to what I'm doing wrong? I'm frustrated that it was so easy the first time and is so difficult now. How do you wipe it clean without smearing it all over? Should I try letting it dry completely and then wiping it down with the a pad and some thinner? I'd think that would have the same result...

I blame Turbo for this, J/K. here is my attempt. Greman uniform gray

looks good.

That's looking great, gents! Keep those pictures coming!

Just thought I would throw my $.02 in. My lauer came out well due to the semi deep marking however I could not do my Sabre Defence because the marking were punch marks. The DPMS was alright because it had deep groves.










This post has been edited by JoeLogic: August 14th 2008 6:45 AM

Hey Joe, what color is that on the logos, looks good.

Exellent thread, seems like I will be getting my lowers (hopefully 3-4) this fall and this will give me something to do to them, until I can afford more expensive parts.

Okay, I'll keep this one going!! I did my M&P 15 lower last night......( OKAY, my high-school senior daughter did them while I supervised...) I will try to post pics tonight when I get home from work. We took the testors enamel paint (that you can buy direct from the testors sight for 3 bucks a shot), I used "US Army/ Marines Desert Armor Tan", whatever the hell that is...let me know if you want the official name and model code for the jar. Here's what we did: pour a small amount in a little cup or bowl and then add a tiny amount of thinner and stir. Then she used a toothpick (round and pointy not flat and blunt) and dipped it in and scraped gently over the rollmarks until they all filled in (you can see this happening if you look closely) then just go watch tv for half an hour or so! you dont need a fan or a hairdryer or anything!! JUST LET IT DRY COMPLETELY! then take a lint free cloth, CLEAN, and put 2 fingers in it and drip some CLP break free on it...then take your 2 fingers and wipe over the rollmark and surrounding area slowly in circles. the CLP takes the paint right off the receiver and leaves the enamel in the rollmarks. some spots you may have to rub a bit harder, but you will be able to see where you need to. sorry to ramble, but I was really happy about how they turned out, and when I get the pics up you can all tell me how awesome a job I did!!! ( or my daughter did, whaaaaaatever!!!)

P.S. Hey J-Rod, nice avatar!

;)