So, I've got this oil drip that really bugs me, but I can't figure out....I though it was the oil pan, cause the bolts at the back where loose. I tightened the bolts up, but it didn't solve the problem.

Basically where it appears to be leaking is either out the oil pan, or coming through the gap between the clutch housing and the crack case. It doesn't make sense that its the oil pan, because I tightened the bolts up......right? Its a 1985 Toyata pick up with a brand spankin new 22r (1600 miles on the engine). Any input would be great....

Not a mechanic but it looks to me like the oil pan gasket was installed using a silicone sealant which has had the negative effect of squishing the gasket out of its seat. Coincidentally, this will make the bolts loosen up too. Replace the oil pan gasket, use no sealant.

Was this a Professional rebuild? Warranty? Looks very likely to be a rear main seal or seal retainer leak.
I don't think that engine has any galley plugs in the rear of the block. Inspect closely up top before
you take anything apart {& sides}, fluids run down from top & will blow back from front.

That Pan done properly doesn't use a gasket. Sealant only. Possibly a front lip seal.

This post has been edited by bonehead098: October 8th 2009 1:36 AM

Before taking all that crap apart, check the back of the valve cover gasket as they like to leak down the back of the block and end up just where ya see it. Also check and make sure the oilsending unit is not leaking

Also make sure the pan flange is straight. Sometimes they get wavy where the bolts tighten down.

If the gasket is shot then tightening the bolts will do no good. If you have to pull it take a small ball peen hammer and straighten the flange before reinstalling. You can used rtv with the gasket just dont over due it and install before it starts to harden.

Your gonna have to watch it run to see where the leak is coming from. Make sure you block the wheels set the emergency brake before you get under there.

No, it wasn't professional. It was put together by a mill wright and my brother.



oilsending unit being the dohinky where the oil pressure gauge sensor goes?





I will do this tomorrow....

So yeah, thanks for all the great information! I didn't think it could be coming from the top of the engine, so I haven't checked that. I'll try and get back in there to see whats up. Its a little tight, but I should be able to see if thats where its leaking. From what I've heard so far, I'm thinking it might be the oil pan, but my bro put silcon all over it.

Ahh yes, oil leaks!!

I have an 89 Bronco, dang near perfect, but still sometimes has issues here and there.

Check the valve covers. Those are common places for oil leaks. I used these blue rubber gaskets but they cost $40 for a pair. But heck of a lot better than cork, reusable, and they have a metal frame inside the rubber which makes it stay in place/easy to install.

Next check the oil dip stick. You just rebuilt this motor.. I know with my Bronco, I did a valve cover job and still had a small leak. Where the dip stick bracket connects on the side of my motor..it was on the wrong side of this bracket, thus causing my dip stick tube to not fully seat in the oil pan. It was in place..but only half way in. I re-bolted the dipstick bracket to where it was orig. suppost to be, and it fully seated the tube into the oil pan. This cured my oil leak.

nothing a little saw dust can't fix.

oil pan. trans input. engine output(rear main). oil sender. valve cover.

brand new engine not professionally done my guess would be rear main.

Did this same problem exist prior to the work that was completed?


Get a can of brake cleaner and sray it down good to clean it all off and watch it while it's running to see were it gets wet first. Make dang sure it is not coming from above and running down into the area in question.
It looks to me like either the oil pan needs resealed or the rear main seal is leaking. If it is the pan be sure to clean the block and pan of ANY old gasket material and wipe it down with a rag soaked in brake cleaner prior to re-assembly.
Alot of times when an engine is overhauled or resealed and the same crankshft is used the rear main oil seals will seep or leak due to a groove in the crankshaft where the oil seal rides. Some makes/models have an option of putting a thin metal sleeve on the crank to give the new seal a new place to ride on. That of course will require removing the engine again.
Keep us posted.

Well I called up my brother, and he said the oil pan gasket split when he torqued it to specs, so thats why its leaking. I went ahead and picked up a new gasket in town, so i'm going to put it in tomorrow. I found a vacuum line today that was unplugged which I think was causing a couple of really annoying problems like poor acceleration, and the truck being hard to start sometimes when it was hot. I also sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in there, so make sure the choke wasn't sticking. Oh, and I need to put in a new thermostat lol. So I got alot of work to do...but yeah, I think I got the oil leak nailed now, I just need to put the new one in.

And FYI, they put in a brand new long block, it wasn't like a rebuild or anything.

This post has been edited by norcalwelder: October 11th 2009 5:30 AM

I would still watch it to make sure thats where the oil is coming from. Even if it looks like the gasket, take a rag and hold it above the leak if it stops than its coming from up above.

Yeah before I tore it all apart, I checked all over it for oil slicks, and there some on the front of the engine, but thats a separate issue. I changed the gasket and found that the old one was a total mess. So I put it all back together, let it run for awhile, nothing. Drove it 10 miles, nothing. I think that took care of it, but I'll keep my eye on it. My new problem is vacuum/carb related I think. Basically what it used to do, like clock work, is I'd push the gas petal to the floor (when it was cold) and then crank it. It would start like on the 1st crank, litterally. I'd shut it off, start it up, 1st crank, it was going. But then the third time, and always the 3rd time, it would crank forever and then finally sputtered and would catch with some pumping of the gas petal, and then run fine. So, someone mentioned that sounded like a clogged intake, so I got some gas system cleaner and dumped that in the tank. After I got home, I sprayed a bunch of that choke/carb cleaner in while it was running. While I had the air filter off, I noticed this vacuum line unplugged on the APP (aux power pump or something like that on the carb) so I plugged that back in. That solved the stumbling when it was cool, but right after all that, it didn't start as good. I haven't had the problem with the endless cranking at all (in like 20-30 time starting it). But now, no matter what, it cranks for like almost 10 times it seems like before it will start. And it generally wont start till I tap the gas petal even when hot/warm! I unplugged that APP again, and plugged the vacuum line, but that didn't change how it started. Any ideas? I'm tearing my hair out over this....some things that I've done are, check the timing, the float level, (high, but within specs) and made sure everything I can see on the carb moves freely.
Thanks for any help!

Check every single vacum line from one end to the other and make sure they are all plugged in where they belong, there should be a diagram on an underhood sticker someplace.

Second thing to check is the choke. After setting overnight the choke should slam closed all the way when the gas pedal/throttle linkage is pushed.
Upon starting the choke should pull open about an 1/8 of and inch and come to the fully open position when warmed up, it may take several minutes to open fully.
Does it hold a good idle when cold and warm?