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Flinging Brass, I loose alot brass
post June 13th 2006 1:59 PM
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My Kimber throws the brass so far, I cannot find it. I installed a 20lb recoil spring. Is their anything I can do to the gun, so it won't throw the brass so far?
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post June 13th 2006 5:29 PM
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It's pretty much the norm regardless of what brand 10mm you choose. Not a whole lot you can do to make a real difference. Glocks seem to fling em' the least, Kimbers/1911's in between and the Witness is the distance champ. A heavier spring can make a a slight difference, but you are allready running a 20# and most will agree that is about right or that possibly a 22# is about the max you should run. I agree. Here is one reason: It's just too damned hard to keep the gun from malfing due to the "limp wrist" effect you get with a heavy spring. You literally need a death grip, at least I did, to keep the gun running with full power handloads. I have tried 24#-28# as an experiment and that was my experience. The brass was a bit closer, but not worth the trouble.

Here is some more discussion:
http://www.10mmtalk.com/index.php?showtopi...t=0&#entry37305

Links and References to Other Pages:

http://www.10mmtalk.com/index....id=37305&st=0&#entry37305


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post June 13th 2006 5:58 PM
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Slide speed is the problem, the 1911 slide just does not have enough mass to really keep the 10mm brass in a nice even 6 foot pattern. Heavier springs help a little but going even heavier into the 20+ pound range brings it's own set of problems. A Shock Buff might help a little more.

The Glock's do better with the launching of brass because the slide mass is greater but even with the stock set up they will launch into orbit too.

The nature of the beast.


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post June 13th 2006 6:26 PM
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Consider an oversized Firing Pin Stop. It will reduce slide speed a bit. It might help.

A little tweaking on the angles on the ejector can help in some instances.

Check out this site and read the part about recoil reduction, comfort etc. jparticularly the Sources part and articles by Don William, Dick Heinie and Dane Burns.

Read the whole site if you have the time. It's a great source of info.


http://www.geocities.com/mr_motorhead/10tech.html



This post has been edited by Iggy: June 13th 2006 6:29 PM

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post June 23rd 2006 12:51 AM
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Try putting color on the base of your brass (blue or red Sharpie). Will at least allow you to see it more easily.


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post May 7th 2009 5:18 AM
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QUOTE (Razor @ June 13th 2006 8:59 AM) *
My Kimber throws the brass so far, I cannot find it. I installed a 20lb recoil spring. Is their anything I can do to the gun, so it won't throw the brass so far?


I have found that when shooting at a range, a small contraption that I made will collect almost 90% or more of my brass. It's not a perfect design, but I took one of my adjustable microphone stands, bought a mesh boating trash bag and ran a hard wire through the opening so that it keeps the bag fully open, and attached it to the mic stand (not perfectly yet, but it works pretty well just using zip ties.) The mic stand can then adjust for bench shooting or standing up, you just have to place the bag within about 6 inches of ejection port or watch where it ejects and place it in line with that. Not a bad compromise to keep from running around and looking for brass. I lost maybe 2 or 3 out of 80 rounds the other day. next time I go to the range I will take some pics of my brass catcher. really.gif


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post August 19th 2009 2:31 AM
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My old DE did this also. Most of my brass was hitting on the rear edge of the eject port and going down range being propelled by the foward slide motion, this was also denting the case. So, I scolloped the ejection port. This made my brass more predictible in its ejection path (more to the side) I quit losing most of it down range at the indoor ranges, and reduced almost all of the case denting. I later combined this with a brass catcher. My G20 is predictible up and to the side.
MikeH
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