I've never seen one in person. What does the reticle look like? Is it a red or green dot? I'm red/green color blind and I can't see dots although I can see red lasers.

it is red.

I recently bought the eotech 557 with the 4x magnifier. I don't think the bullet drop would be worth having without the magnifier because at higher light settings the dots are hard to see almost run together. With the magnifier behind it it clears them up quite a bit. I don't plan on doing a whole lot of shooting past a couple hundred yards with it anyways tho i but it's nice to have that option. My only advice is there are tons of nice optics out there and everyone has their favorite just like their favorite gun or car. Look at a few and get the one that YOU like i don't think you could go wrong with any model of eotech, aimpoint, trijicon etc.

Thanks EOTECH!!!

I now have three of your critters in 512 (AA BATT), and one in 552 NV CR 123. The problem I have with the 511-512 is the space available on the MSAR rail when using BUIS. I am clean out of room! I had to leave on end hanging slightly, which should not be a big problem, but my mind does not like the floaters....

I have tried the Aim point in several models, the latest being the COMP ML2 on a Mini 14 belonging to a friend, and I prefer the sight picture afforded the EOTECH for close quarters.

On the AR platform I moved the EOTECH 552NV to the forward TAC rail, which dropped it's elevation slightly, while allowing me to use my tactical carry handle with original integrated M2 sights, and they co-witness just fine so far. Have not been to the range yet.

I think the new EOTECH with the 3X magnifier will hook up real well on my new Mini 14 in 6.8 SPC, where I think the magnifier will serve a better purpose. I have not given up on the magnifier on the AR yet, but the mounts will have to be worked out.

UPDATE: I put an XPS2-2 on layaway with the bullet drop compensator, but now I'm hoping I can convince the gun shop to order me an XPS3-2 with NV capability and just switch the layaway over. I really want the ability to use NV devices with the EOTech, I mean zombies wander around at night too.

I ordered my XPS3-2 from Addax a week ago. I should have it sometime in November. I cant wait.

This post has been edited by Tucker: October 29th 2009 4:31 AM

Anybody have one of the XPS models yet? If so how ya like it?

I just got mine in today, Im gonna shoot with it tomorrow. I love it so far!

I'll let you know in a week or so ;)

Just out of curiosity, what is the recomended distance to zero in an eotech. I just picked up a 516

I zero at 50 yards.

+1

I zero at 50 as well.



TS

I zeroed at 50 yards, and shot 60 rounds. Its working great. I was able to group most within 3in when firing at a fast pace with 55gr. UMC ammunition. I loved how fast i could get on target. I do need some practice tho.

This post has been edited by Tucker: November 9th 2009 1:48 AM

You guys zero at 50 yds? I have a question regarding that, and sorry for hijacking the thread, but does that zero greatly affect closer ballistics, like 10-25 yards? I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the bullet's trajectory (the whole "rise/fall thing). Any help would be great.

[/hijack]

I would not think so at under 50 yards. I have a BUIS with a ranging dial and the initial setting is at 20 yds zero which is back on point of aim at 200 yds. At 0-50 yards I don't think the difference is significant.

Take a look at a reloading manual and in the back are trajectory tables listing the flight path of the bullet from the muzzle out to 300-400 yds, depending on the caliber in question. Bullets leaving the muzzle will rise in an arc dropping back into line of sight at different distances. So you can use a 200 yard zero on a flat shooting (little arc) rifle, and have a rifle that can get a kill shot from 0-400 yds using no hold over or point of aim.

The slower the bullet the more tendency to arc, so you would have to modify your "zero" based on the ballistic table for the round you are shooting. Like a 45-70 is big and slow moving with a high arc, so you would have to know the distance you are from the target roughly to hold over or compensate for that arc. If your zero is at 100, the table might show muzzle zero, with a 100 yard zero, but 50 yards might be +3" and 200 yards could be minus 6" as the bullet slows down and begins to fall to earth.

I re read this and it sounds complicated, but it really is not. Hope it helps.
ARCQB

Inside the first twenty something yards the height of the sight over the bore is what you have to adjust for. Generally it's about two inches.


TS

Hmmm, well providing this hurricane doesn't ruin my chances to sight my EOTech this weekend, I'll have to give that a shot (no pun intended). Thanks for the info.

ARCQB,

I was searching the forums for "MSAR" when I saw your post. It's actually almost everything I was looking for. I recently got an MSAR STG E4 20" Barrel in 5.56 (hoping to get the 6.8 SPC kit when it comes out in a few months). I bought the model with the rail ontop instead of the 1.5x optic, which I believe the rail is 9", though I haven't measured it. I have an EOTech 517 coming in the mail, which I'm excited for because it's my first "name brand" sight I've ever purchased, but now I'm considering Iron Sights. I've ready that when you buy the 1.5x optic verison of an MSAR it comes with BUIS, but the rail model doesn't. If my battery died due to low supply (zombie apocalypse), Alaska got EMP'ed, or the sight was somehow broken and I absolutely couldn't send it back to EOTech, I'd be in trouble on accurate shooting. Which is why I'm looking at Magpul BUIS.

How do they sit with the EOTech, how well do they work on an MSAR, what brand do you use? I'm just trying to find out a bit more, because I've never used BUIS before, just the regular old irons. And I've never used an MSAR. Haven't even fired it yet (will this weekend if my EOTech comes in).

^BUIS work just like regular irons, just most are foldable. I have GG&G BUIS on my DPMS and they are plenty accurate at 15-100 yards. Magpul MBUS are great, just don't mount them on a railed gas block or they'll be damaged from the heat.