Cool beans!!! I would be interested in what (if anything) is going on in my area in relation to this subject. I have never been involved in gun games, but I would love to try it. Increasing your guns skills is just that, increasing your gun skills. I'm all about that.

Thanks for taking the time to generate this thread, Wulfy and BC!!!!

Texas IDPA clubs

bc

Good job BC. Definitely would clear up brand new shooter questions.
>>Thank you.

Also everyone who is interested and leery of trying it out for the first time. If they are any more human than pond scum, they will welcome you with open arms and be extremely helpful. They are there to keep the sport going and not kill it off with bad attitudes, everyone I have met so far are extremely nice people and very helpful to new folks. Most of all it is a blast and as mentioned of above after one match you will realize how bad you suck at defensive pistol shooting.
>>This is true. I can't tell you how many "One Match" shooters I've seen. They show up fired up and ready and by the end of the day realize they suck. They never show up again. Their loss, I say.

Despite the rules being kinda sorta lengthy they aren't confusing. They are all there for safety and it's things we all do every time we shoot anyway. The biggest one is finger out of the trigger guard until you shoot, which means during the draw stroke, while reloading and everything. I know most everyone shoot with burns that into muscle memory first. If you keep the finger out of the trigger guard it would keep you from violating damn near all of the violations that can get you tossed from a match. The rest are very easy and as long as you are a safe shooter you would probably never violate one anyway.
>>Timers are called BRD's. That's short for Brain Reduction Devices. It's a truth. You WILL lose 30 IQ points and become a drooling idiot the first time the timer beeps behind you. It's normal.

Many new competition shooters I see are what I call Solitary's. They've NEVER shot in any type of formalized setting at all. While they THINK they have a handle on gun safety, when it comes down to it, they violate the cardinal rules all day long (fingers and muzzles are EXTREMELY common). Ignorance is NOT bliss in this case. Have those safety rules DOWN, or you will hear about it. While we know they are all common sense, people tend to forget things in the newness and excitement of their first match.

If you should decide to shoot a match I'll pass along advice BC told me and it's true....DONT FORGET TO BREATH!
>>

One last bit of advice BC passed to me and I found out was very true. Slow down at first. The biggest thing with IDPA I've found so far and in only shooting one match is there is a fine balance between maintaining a good speed and accuracy. Every time you miss it's time added to your overall score. So if you cannot hit accurately while hauling ass you aren't doing yourself any favors.
>>You cannot miss fast enough to win an IDPA match. Penalties for poor shooter are stiff and accumulate very quickly. Minus 3's, Minus 5's and the dreaded FTN (Failure to Neutralize) will put you at the bottom of the ranks so quickly your nose will bleed. Start slowly and make your hits. When you are consistently shooting "clean" stages (very few points down and no penalties), then it's time to consider bumping your speed up a notch or two.

IDPA Classifier is a great 90 round practice session that makes use of every shot fired. I will skip garment issues as you shoot the classifier without them. Understand something... it is nothing more than a solid test of basic handgunning skills. Print out the course reqs from idpa.com. Learn the course of fire and you will do well. Getting to Master class is no small thing.
>>This statement is flat out correct, IMO.

This is a sport of discipline and training. In football, there is no substitute for speed. In practical shooting, there is no sub for disciplined training. With that in mind...
>>Practice, practice, practice, practice, practice.

Get a Timer! You can't keep score without it so that kinda narrows it down. The CED 700 from Dillon catalog is great.
>>I use the Pact Club Timer III. I'm very happy with it.

Use the Iso stance. Point your thumbs at the target and get as high a grip as you can and cover the gun for max friction and recoil control. Grip strength should be strong but not shaky. 85% or so. Hand strength is a major factor in gunfighting. Use a grip developer.
>>Good advice, here. Pay attention to this guy...he knows his stuff.

9mm guns will dramatically improve your time and scoring in the appropriate divisions, particularly in SSP and ESP. Work on your split times using the lower recoil pulse of the 9mm. Trust your ability and push the envelope. Seeing it really work in 9mm helps control in 45 ACP, too. In my not so humble opinion, the Glock 34 is the finest handgun available for the money... reliable, amazingly accurate and fast handling.
>>Again, I agree. I made Master with a G34. If I weren't so in love with the G19, I'd carry a G34.

Get a straight drop holster and position it directly on your hip. I dislike 511 pants as they don't have a loop to straddle the holster on. I use jeans or short jeans and 1 3/4" belts. Use a Kydex holster.
>>I do like 5.11 pants. I agree with his advice on the holster. Comp-Tac is still king, IMO.

Single mag pouches are better and you stand much less of a chance of fumbling with them. Adequate spacing for a smooth retrieval is critical in the relaod process. The first mag should be directly behind your hip as per regs...positioned over and slightly to the rear of your front pocket opening for a smooth reload with retention. I carry an Emerson Karambit in my left pocket and it keeps the slot open for the mags.
>>The Karambit thing is a good idea.....Hmmm...we all learn something each day. He's spot on about stuffing mags into your pocket. I also agree with him on using single mag pouches. I like Sidearmor's pouches best.

Get the clearest shooting glasses that you can. I use Classic clear/amber from Gargoyles Performance Eyewear. They sponsered me as a guide many years ago and I still love their stuff. The first wraparound eye protection. I use Browning electronic muffs but you don't need them.
>>Electronic muffs are best. They allow you to hear range commands, and that's important.

IDPA CLASSIFIER
>>I'll not comment on the Classifier itself. His advice is as good as it gets.

Memorize the entire course of fire. All strings, all requirements. Learn it, know it, live it until it's second nature. Subconscious. Focus on your accuracy and being smooth.

String 1,2,3 Failure drills are a critical defensive shooting skill. Remember to react instantly and smoothly to draw your weapon. Relax. Tight muscles do not move as fast or as true as loose ones. On start, keep your head and eyes locked on the target. Do not move your eyes. Bring the sights up to your eyes, not your eyes to the sights. Fast to the gun, sure on the grip, fast to the target, sure on the trigger. As your sights touch the A zone, press twice and follow the recoil with a head shot. If you can do this and stagger your shots vertically, instead of horizontally, that is a good sign of precise sight alignment and good trigger control. You are looking for times below 2.4 seconds on each string, with perfect hits. These are key strings of fire. If you can't do them in less than 2.4, then practice until you can. .20 splits are good.

String 4: Head shots. 2 each target. Don't miss. Whatever you do, don't miss. They are costly on the classifier and in a match as my stomach shrinks at the thought of missing a head shot in a fight. Remember to transition smoothly to the next target. I usually shoot left to right by the way. You are looking for times around five seconds on the string. No missess. Did I mention that?

String 5: Weak hand. I lock my arm and keep my thumb high for this one. Right handed shooters start on the left hand target and use the recoil and muzzle flip to go to the next target. Cant your weapon slightly, about ten degrees. It helps in transitions. I rarely have anything but O's on this string, even using 44 mags. Remember to lock your arm and rotate your hips, not your shoulders. -3 hits are common for many shooters who don't practice weak hand. A time in the mid 3's is your goal.

String 6: El Pres with 1 shot each. Right handed? Turn right and shoot left to right. Lock your frame and use your hips to rotate, not your arms and keep your head still! Remember to fire shot 3 and drop your magazine instantly while reaching for your spare. Seat the mag, drop the slide and re-engage. I hit the release with my gun hand thumb but I have big hands. I do this drill in about 4.7 seconds. You are looking for a time under 6 seconds with perfect hits.

String 7: Strong hand. Same thing. Lock your arm. Controlled pairs at full speed using strong hand can be done with some practice. Lock your arm, lean into it. Strong foot forward. Don't rush the first shot. Transition smoothly. Right around 5 seconds. For stage 1... 27 seconds is a good goal.

Stage 2

String 1: 2 each while advancing. This is a toughest string for me. Remember to draw and take your first step at the same time. Walk slow, heel toe, heel toe...shoot controlled pairs. The first two are tough, don't think about your hits, just transition to the middle and rip off the next two then go right and hit the next target. 4 seconds or less for this string with maybe two points down. I usually do it in 2.9 to 3.2 depending on platform and how smoothly the first pair comes off.

String 2: 2 each retreating. This is an easy string because you start close. Face the left most target and the transitions will be easier. Looking for about 3 seconds on this and I usually do it in 2.6 or so. You shouldn't be dropping any points on this one. Some advocate starting on the middle target, then shifting left, then right.

String 3: El Pres. Remember this is at ten yards and point shooting is out. Use your sights. Maximize grip with left hand and lock the support thumb right down the long axis of the dustcover. Smooth transitions. Sevigny shot this in 6.91 at Nationals and took the stage with a perfect score.

String 4: Strong hand. Remember to fully extend and lock your arm and watch sights. Ten yards out. I usually do this right at 4 seconds with one point down. For stage 2, you need to be in the mid 20 second range.

Stage 3: This where the men and boys are separated. Nowhere in formal handgun training qualification will you find tougher standards than the first two strings here.

String 1: 2 each from one side barricade, reload with retention and 2 each from opposite side. Start looking at the target. Bore in on the chest and bring the gun up to you. Use the barricade! I stand on the sides of the box to stabilize the barricade and to allow greater ease of movement. Measure it out so your gun hand is flat against the side. Not your knuckles or your thumb... the back of your gun hand. Depending on how stable the barricade is, I press hard against it to stabilize my sights and go through the targets with 2 each in four seconds. Fast transitions, don't look for your hits. Aim higher... about 3 inches. Use the reload with retention not the tactical reload. Much faster and smoother. 2 each... mag in the pocket, new mag hard in the gun...2 each. Start left and shoot right. On the reload, lean right to help expose pocket and to position you for right hand barricade. Looking for a 3.0 second reload... shot to shot. I usually do this in 10-11 seconds depending on the gun. Moon clipped revolvers are almost as fast on this string.

String 2: Start on strong side. I have done this starting left with good success, too. Remember to aim high and brace the support hand against the barricade! Once again, measure it out. Mag in the pocket, new mag hard in the gun and gone! Muzzle up and down range. Remember to aim high still on these strings. Your time should be slightly slower, 1 second or so, than string one, because of the 5 yards you cover.

String 3: Just remember to drop into the kneeling. No steps... drop into position. Start looking at the target! Use cover. Aim high. 6 seconds is a good time here.


Lets look at all of the strings of fire for time standards and reasonble points down.

Stage 1:

String 1: 2.40
String 2: 2.25
String 3: 2.30
String 4: 4.50
String 5: 3.25
String 6: 6.00
String 7: 5.00

Points down x .5 seconds. 1.50

Stage Total 25.70 Not a bad time. Accuracy, head shots and fast presentations are the key on Stage 1!


Stage 2:

String 1: 3.50
String 2: 3.20
String 3: 8.50
String 4: 5.50

Points down x .50 seconds... 3.00

Stage Total: 23.70 Very good time with a careful blend of accuracy and speed.


Stage 3:

String 1: 13.00
String 2: 14.00
String 3: 5.50

Total Points down x .50 seconds 7.50 seconds

Stage Total: 39.50

Match total: 88.90

NOW! This time seems ripping fast, but if you look at the string times, it's pretty reasonable if you meet the demands of each string and have good hits. I put 24 points down here. Know the course, concentrate on each string and you will be there in no time. If you can shoot the classifier once a week, practice draws and failure drills 100 rounds per week along with 20 minutes of dry fire practice and dummy reloads and shoot all of the matches you can... I would say 8 months at the most to make ESP or SSP MASTER!
>>Good luck! Follow what you've read above and you'll definitely become a better shooter!
bc

The only thing I would add is expect to find out if your handgun is worth a shit or not.

I am thinking about attending a couple of matches at my club just to watch. I actually have several limited class guns, a holster or two, and now a Hi-Cap 1911 .38 Super.

The .356TSW brass is expensive, as will be the .38 Super Comp, so what is the policy on policing the brass?? I suppose it could be different at each club/match, especially to prevent delays, but at 140.00 per 1000 + shipping, I am getting a little stingy with the stuff. Now the range sells the stuff to the scrap metals outfit instead of selling to competitors.

I am thinking about attending a couple of matches at my club just to watch. I actually have several limited class guns, a holster or two, and now a Hi-Cap 1911 .38 Super.

The .356TSW brass is expensive, as will be the .38 Super Comp, so what is the policy on policing the brass?? I suppose it could be different at each club/match, especially to prevent delays, but at 140.00 per 1000 + shipping, I am getting a little stingy with the stuff. Now the range sells the stuff to the scrap metals outfit instead of selling to competitors.