QUOTE (knot28 @ October 23rd 2009 4:27 PM)
Sorry about that , primer pocket crimp.
De-primer the brass using either a primer removing die, called depriming die, or resizing die with pin, then use either a swage end (part that goes in the holder on the shaft that has a little pointed nipple on it), reaming tool, cleaning tool, or resizing tool as a go/ no go gauge by inserting it into the pocket. If it goes in easily then its nor crimped. If it doesn't then it is crimped and the crimp will have to be removed using one of those methods. It should be a smooth straight in insert that turns freely. If you have to force it, its crimped.
If its 5.56mm, it probably crimped and often mil ammunition has a primer sealer, which is almost a sure sign its crimped. The sealer is a red or green ring which was basically a Locktight glue like substance to keep moisture out. Some .223 is also crimped so its a good idea to check.
I typically use my swager as my go/no go gauge. Most trim tools come with a small primer pocket cleaner which will work as a gauge if you don't have a swager.
If you have none of this stuff and using a hand primer, you can tell by how much force it takes to get the primer in. Using this method make sure to point the brass opening away from your face and flammable material in case it goes off. If its too hard stop, its crimped. A properly sized pocket hole reseating a primer should be snug but a constant force to put a new one in. If you don't know your own strength or you have the primer tool from hell, the primer crimp will bend the primer and you will notice a lip of metal from the primer on one side of the hole, both sides, or the primer will be deformed, compare to existing factory rounds. What happens is the crimp will catch the lip of the primer not allowing it to go down.
We use the term Crimp to describe how the primers in MIL ammunition are locked into place. Technically by industry terms, its really a staking operation. The primer pocket is a hole with a champher at the top (slant). The champer assists in alignment when putting the primer in and acts a a gauge to insure the primer is below the case bottom face. Above the face can lead to dented primers from cycling without firing, over penetration of the pen while firing, or worse case slam firing. Once the primer is in (often same operation) a one or two (typically two) prong press is pressed down to force brass into the slot on the edges of the primer to hold it firmly in place.
I mention this because often Swaging or Reaming (depends on who's tool you use) it will remove the crimp from the hole but not necessarily the champher. This doesn't stop you from priming but removing the crimp from the champher really makes the priming go a lot easier with fewer rejects/reworks over volume runs. What I use there is simply a very slow drill or dremel with round nosed grind stone (larger than the primer hole but small enough to fit into the champher. I picked mine up at Lowes for $3. You don't want to make the hole too large.) to do a very fast crimp removal from the champher, but not hole. Since you are doing this only a few seconds and not much force, the stone will last forever almost. Now some better tools, like the Dillon Swager and two stage reaming tools, will do both. You can tell those by the action area, part that does the work, will have two stages not just one. An upside down "T" shape would be one stage, while a two stage it would be the upside down "T" with a hump after the flat then the handle.
Tj
BTW, If you tell these guys what brass you are planning to load, they can tell you if it is typically crimped or not. I think these guys have loaded every type of brass known to man at one time or another. lol
October 23rd 2009 12:36 PM
