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Cleaning question
post June 15th 2008 10:07 AM
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QUOTE (SMLE @ June 14th 2008 5:19 PM) *
Island Lake is strictly bring your own ammo. The pro shop, which caters to the skeet range, has shotgun ammo, but I don't recall ever seeing any other ammo there. You have to stop in there to buy targets, though (unless you have your own).

I've only ever shot my own ammo at Top Gun. That rule must be for rifle, no?

No they say it is a recent change in policy! You're not even allowed to bring your own ammo or pre loaded mags into the range.
150dollar fine and lifetime ban if you do! flea.gif
And you better clean that rifle after every shoot! And that means the bolt front and back and every part! I never heard of anything less!

This post has been edited by Nam o3: June 15th 2008 10:14 AM
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post June 15th 2008 11:14 AM
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QUOTE (gotm4 @ June 14th 2008 11:38 AM) *
I wouldn't worry about getting the back of the bolt sterile clean unless you plan to store it for years without use. I currently have 8K rounds on one of my bolt with carbon on the back of it that's never been cleaned off. It's a self limiting cycle. I run my rifles very wet with oil and have never had a bolt or rifle fail because of the carbon on the back of the bolt. It takes me about 10min to 'clean' an AR. As long as the bolt will go into and come out of the carrier I don't worry about the carbon. If you do clean it off as soon as you put about 40 rounds through it the carbon will be back. It's not like garbage it won't just keep piling up, it's excess is blown out of the vent holes of the carrier during operation.

Ohhhh! I get it now. You're a master of sarcastic humour! thumb.gif laugh.gif
RTFLMAO!
The D.I would give you "Motivation Platoon" if you fell for that one! laugh.gif

This post has been edited by Nam o3: June 15th 2008 11:27 AM
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post June 15th 2008 11:51 AM
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QUOTE (Nam o3 @ June 15th 2008 7:14 AM) *
Ohhhh! I get it now. You're a master of sarcastic humour! thumb.gif laugh.gif
RTFLMAO!
The D.I would give you "Motivation Platoon" if you fell for that one! laugh.gif



No on being sarcastic, it just doesn't need to be sterile clean but it does need to be well lubed. I've run some of my rifles well past 2K rounds with only adding oil. Wet and Dirty will run, dry and dirty will not.

You may also be interested in what Larry Vickers says about lubrication.
http://www.vickerstactical.com/Tips/weaponlubrication.htm

Here's what Pat Rogers says about cleaning and lubing:
http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/Lubricati...ers-t19367.html

Links and References to Other Pages:

http://www.ar15armory.com/foru...by-Pat-Rogers-t19367.html


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post June 15th 2008 2:07 PM
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QUOTE (gotm4 @ June 15th 2008 7:51 AM) *
No on being sarcastic, it just doesn't need to be sterile clean but it does need to be well lubed. I've run some of my rifles well past 2K rounds with only adding oil. Wet and Dirty will run, dry and dirty will not.

You may also be interested in what Larry Vickers says about lubrication.
http://www.vickerstactical.com/Tips/weaponlubrication.htm

Here's what Pat Rogers says about cleaning and lubing:
http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/Lubricati...ers-t19367.html

Yes part of our gear in Nam was always a big bottle of lubriplate which we applied liberally. But as I said. The rule was clean after every shooting.
1. pull, clean and lube the FP and it's channel, inspect to make sure the tip of the pin is not damaged.
2. Clean and lube the bolt period. We had a toothbrush and Hoppe's #9 for this.
3. Clean and lube the interior of the upper reciever with toothbrush and silicon cloth and/or patch.
4. Clean and lube the buffer. Make sure there is no moisture in the tube.
5. brush and patch the bore till the patch comes through clean.
But we were in the jungle. And Marines have zero tolerance.
I got caught with a dirty weapon in the field and the CO gave me office hours and made me fill in a 500 pound bomb crater with an Etool.
I'm paranoid til this day. laugh.gif

Any carbon at all on the bolt and the D.I. would make you very very sorry.... laugh.gif
But that was then, and now this is back in the rear with the gear as it were. smile.gif thumb.gif

PS
I found some Lubriplate....
Mil spec Lubriplate...

This is even better

This post has been edited by Nam o3: June 15th 2008 5:13 PM

Links and References to Other Pages:

http://www.ar15armory.com/foru...by-Pat-Rogers-t19367.html
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...A%20MIL.%20SPEC.%20GREASE
http://www.lubriplate.com/webstore/detail.aspx?ID=9
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post June 15th 2008 6:27 PM
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QUOTE (Nam o3 @ June 15th 2008 10:07 AM) *
Any carbon at all on the bolt and the D.I. would make you very very sorry.... laugh.gif
But that was then, and now this is back in the rear with the gear as it were. smile.gif thumb.gif


I think we've come a long way since the 1960s. Both in 'knowing' what works and what doesn't from the then military 'thinking' what works and what doesn't, IIRC the first M16s issued didn't come with cleaning kits at all, and they had the wrong powder for cleaner burning.

I remember when I was a kid growing up around my uncles garage (he was a Master Mechanic and Machinist). Anyway I remember seeing a maintenance manual for a 1930s car. IIRC is said to relube the wheel bearings every 600 miles or something like that............fast forward to 2008 that doesn't apply much any more with modern bearing and better greases and that some bearings are now sealed and unserviceable.

Todays vehicles don't need that kind of maintenance. Technology and knowledge have gotten much better. Like I said the gun doesn't need to be sterile clean, reasonably clean is fine but it does need to be very well lubed.
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post June 15th 2008 10:07 PM
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QUOTE (gotm4 @ June 15th 2008 2:27 PM) *
I think we've come a long way since the 1960s. Both in 'knowing' what works and what doesn't from the then military 'thinking' what works and what doesn't, IIRC the first M16s issued didn't come with cleaning kits at all, and they had the wrong powder for cleaner burning.

I remember when I was a kid growing up around my uncles garage (he was a Master Mechanic and Machinist). Anyway I remember seeing a maintenance manual for a 1930s car. IIRC is said to relube the wheel bearings every 600 miles or something like that............fast forward to 2008 that doesn't apply much any more with modern bearing and better greases and that some bearings are now sealed and unserviceable.

Todays vehicles don't need that kind of maintenance. Technology and knowledge have gotten much better. Like I said the gun doesn't need to be sterile clean, reasonably clean is fine but it does need to be very well lubed.

Of course. smile.gif
And as I said we were in the jungle, and that was ohhhh so long ago.
And the equpment has changed. The chamber on those weapons were chromed where the bolt lugs interfaced. And the buffer was different.
Technology marches on.
thanks. thumb.gif

This post has been edited by Nam o3: June 15th 2008 10:17 PM
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