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Stock nuts?
post November 23rd 2008 11:13 AM
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I am changing my stock plate to a single point sling but cant get the nut to loosen. I know that when the manufacturer mounts them they lock the nut with a crimp on the nut and plate. What i need to know is how to break this without messing up my stock nut. I know this sounds like a stupid question but i have never had to take off a stock nut. Thanks guys and have a great day. unsure.gif thumb.gif


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post November 23rd 2008 11:16 AM
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A castle nut wrench or strap wrench will work. Sometimes they can be on there pretty tight. You might try heating the nut with a hair drier.


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post November 23rd 2008 11:22 AM
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Yah,, just heat it up a bit… Armors at the factory use lock-tight when they tighten down the nut.


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post November 23rd 2008 5:29 PM
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If the castle nut looks like this, you may need to remove the staking (use a small punch to knock it back). It it's not staked, try what the others said and heat it up and turn it with the proper spanner wrench.

staked castle nut


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post November 23rd 2008 7:55 PM
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QUOTE (andy2205 @ November 23rd 2008 5:29 PM) *
If the castle nut looks like this, you may need to remove the staking (use a small punch to knock it back). It it's not staked, try what the others said and heat it up and turn it with the proper spanner wrench.

staked castle nut



That is what I was going to ask, is it staked? I have never had to heat mine up before, I guess I was lucky.


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post November 23rd 2008 8:42 PM
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QUOTE (Nwatson99 @ November 23rd 2008 7:55 PM) *
That is what I was going to ask, is it staked? I have never had to heat mine up before, I guess I was lucky.


Some companies use Loctite.



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post November 23rd 2008 8:46 PM
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QUOTE (TigerStripe @ November 23rd 2008 8:42 PM) *
Some companies use Loctite.



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Yes but I have the Panther Claw and the Big DPMS multi wrench, the only that that would stop that combo is staking. really.gif
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post November 23rd 2008 8:48 PM
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QUOTE (Nwatson99 @ November 23rd 2008 8:46 PM) *
Yes but I have the Panther Claw and the Big DPMS multi wrench, the only that that would stop that combo is staking. really.gif


True. I have the same but heating never hurts.



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post November 24th 2008 12:43 AM
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Just spend your money on a good Castle Nut Wrench. I'm talking about a sturdy one. I went through the headache of buying a cheap "disposable" (What in the F@$& is a disposable tool!!!!) castle nut wrench and scratched up a buffer tube and almost severed my finger clean off. If you buy a strong one it will pull right through the staking. I've successfully done a new DPMS and an M&P for some buddies at work. I forget where, but I saw someone post a picture of one that was made solely for removing the Castle Nut and the handle was about a 1/4" thick steel! But yeah get a good tool, make sure you secure the lower, and put some muscle behind it. It will sheer the burrs right off. Loctite it when you put it back on.

P.S. Make sure you watch for the spring behind the end plate. That little mother flies once you pull the plate off!!!
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post November 24th 2008 12:46 AM
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Here is a decent how-to:

http://www.gearsector.com/?page=article/read&id=12

Links and References to Other Pages:

http://www.gearsector.com/?page=article/read&id=12
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post November 24th 2008 11:08 AM
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QUOTE (makdaddy386 @ November 23rd 2008 10:46 PM) *

Thanks guys. Yes it was staked but i thought i could break it free without punching back the staking. I was wrong. All i did was bugger up the castle nut some. Today i'll punch it back and see what happens. Thanks again for all of your input. It is greatly appreciated. thumb.gif smile.gif
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